beyond the labels
By Caleb Kim
Model and LGBTQ+ rights advocate Ariel Nicholson made history when she was featured on the cover of US Vogue’s “Generation America: The Models Changing an Industry” in September of 2021, becoming the first openly transgender woman to be featured. Nicholson, pictured alongside seven other models, epitomizes the positive changes occurring in the fashion industry that ultimately aims to prioritize people as more than figures represented on a cover.
Nicholson, photographed alongside models Anok Yai, Ariel Nicholson, Bella Hadid, Lola Leon, Sherry Shi, Yumi Nu, Kaia Gerber and Precious Lee, sends a meaningful message. Showcasing and honoring models of diverse, intersectional backgrounds and of various physiques reminds that beauty is only properly conveyed when it stretches beyond the (white, thin, tall) looks that have been exclusively represented for far too long. . Though these models are representative of different communities, that is not all that encompasses them. The women appearing on the cover of this issue have beauty beyond the physical; their stories and who and what they represent are also captivating on their own. In a way, this cover not only paves the way for better representation but also sparks the conversation about what models represent and their own individual story.
Whether it’s fighting against identity labels, stepping towards better representation, or creating a positive message about inclusivity and beauty, Vogue’s September issue is only one of the many ways we are seeing change in the fashion industry.
21-year-old Nicholson, born and raised in Mahwah, New Jersey, was just 13 when she was featured on the PBS documentary “Growing Up Trans.” She then later signed with DNA Model management in high school. Nicholson made her runway model debut in Calvin Klein's 2018 Spring/Summer fashion show walking as the first openly trans woman in a Calvin Klein fashion show. She was later featured on the September 2020 cover of Italian Vogue before the monumental September 2021 American Vogue cover.
Of course, one model on one magazine cover does not even begin to address the lackluster representation within the world of fashion. The industry’s visibility and inclusivity of the LGBTQ+ community — from modeling to behind-the-scenes creative direction and everything in between — remain absurdly and incontestably inadequate. Even garments of clothes represent these shortcomings through the absence of ample gender-neutral clothing options or companies catering to those who identify as non-binary on gender-nonconforming.
Nonetheless, it is refreshing to see something. Seeing Nicholson featured on the cover of a renowned magazine is impactful — it’s powerful. Not only does her cover spread awareness about representation, but it also reflects the efforts of all those, from the past, present and future, working to rid the constraints of heteronormative, cisgendered, binary values in fashion.
Though Nicholson’s achievements are monumental for the LGBTQ+ community and, more specifically, the trans community, it is essential to refuse confining one to a label. Although representation is essential to make significant progress in the industry, there is the possibility that identity politics limit how models are perceived. Only being seen for one aspect of who you are demonstrates the double-edged sword of representing a community and those paving the way in the fashion industry are not immune. Nicholson is proud of both her identity and the community she belongs to, but it can be frustrating for the world to see her as anything other than, simply, Ariel Nicholson.
It is beyond admirable to see Nicholson make strides in the industry and receive her flowers.. Her accomplishments as a trans woman are reasons to celebrate, but her gender identity is only one aspect of the person she is. With all of her accolades and growing impact, Nicholson is not only leaving a legacy for the trans community but also for herself as an individual. When honoring the legacies left by those making history, it is imperative to not only celebrate them in relation to the communities they represent, but also as who they are as a person, beyond the labels.
Nicholson, photographed alongside models Anok Yai, Ariel Nicholson, Bella Hadid, Lola Leon, Sherry Shi, Yumi Nu, Kaia Gerber and Precious Lee, sends a meaningful message. Showcasing and honoring models of diverse, intersectional backgrounds and of various physiques reminds that beauty is only properly conveyed when it stretches beyond the (white, thin, tall) looks that have been exclusively represented for far too long. . Though these models are representative of different communities, that is not all that encompasses them. The women appearing on the cover of this issue have beauty beyond the physical; their stories and who and what they represent are also captivating on their own. In a way, this cover not only paves the way for better representation but also sparks the conversation about what models represent and their own individual story.
Whether it’s fighting against identity labels, stepping towards better representation, or creating a positive message about inclusivity and beauty, Vogue’s September issue is only one of the many ways we are seeing change in the fashion industry.
21-year-old Nicholson, born and raised in Mahwah, New Jersey, was just 13 when she was featured on the PBS documentary “Growing Up Trans.” She then later signed with DNA Model management in high school. Nicholson made her runway model debut in Calvin Klein's 2018 Spring/Summer fashion show walking as the first openly trans woman in a Calvin Klein fashion show. She was later featured on the September 2020 cover of Italian Vogue before the monumental September 2021 American Vogue cover.
Of course, one model on one magazine cover does not even begin to address the lackluster representation within the world of fashion. The industry’s visibility and inclusivity of the LGBTQ+ community — from modeling to behind-the-scenes creative direction and everything in between — remain absurdly and incontestably inadequate. Even garments of clothes represent these shortcomings through the absence of ample gender-neutral clothing options or companies catering to those who identify as non-binary on gender-nonconforming.
Nonetheless, it is refreshing to see something. Seeing Nicholson featured on the cover of a renowned magazine is impactful — it’s powerful. Not only does her cover spread awareness about representation, but it also reflects the efforts of all those, from the past, present and future, working to rid the constraints of heteronormative, cisgendered, binary values in fashion.
Though Nicholson’s achievements are monumental for the LGBTQ+ community and, more specifically, the trans community, it is essential to refuse confining one to a label. Although representation is essential to make significant progress in the industry, there is the possibility that identity politics limit how models are perceived. Only being seen for one aspect of who you are demonstrates the double-edged sword of representing a community and those paving the way in the fashion industry are not immune. Nicholson is proud of both her identity and the community she belongs to, but it can be frustrating for the world to see her as anything other than, simply, Ariel Nicholson.
It is beyond admirable to see Nicholson make strides in the industry and receive her flowers.. Her accomplishments as a trans woman are reasons to celebrate, but her gender identity is only one aspect of the person she is. With all of her accolades and growing impact, Nicholson is not only leaving a legacy for the trans community but also for herself as an individual. When honoring the legacies left by those making history, it is imperative to not only celebrate them in relation to the communities they represent, but also as who they are as a person, beyond the labels.