Rooted in Heritage: Asian-Owned Brands to Look Out For
By Jana Mae Rubio
I’ve been stuck in a loop of introspection lately regarding my Asian-American identity. So far, there are two points that I’ve realized:
East Asian aesthetics dominate Asian-American culture, which makes it harder for Desi and Southeast Asian Americans to explore their own identity; and that a lack of accessibility severely impacts someone’s ability to learn about their history. (I figured this one out when I tried to see if any of the Philippines’ national museums were digitized and found nothing.)
The barriers that have to be overcome in order to connect with South/Southeast culture is overwhelming. With little media to see ourselves reflected in, I was genuinely surprised to find heritage-based labels rising in popularity. In this article, I will define heritage-based clothing as a subgenre that emphasizes preserving traditional textiles, manufacturing techniques or indigenous goods.
It’s really cool to see the Asian diaspora return to their roots for inspiration. It’s a smart adaptation to utilize the hyper-visibility of social media in this way: not only are marginalized groups finally being empowered, but a revitalized interest in traditional clothing can offer a starting point for Asian-American culture to build on.
Here are three Asian brands that I’ve discovered and love with my entire heart. :)
Prospective Flow
Founded in 2010, Prospective Flow is a Japanese label operating out of Los Angeles. Founded by three brothers, the label’s philosophy is rooted in “onko-chishin”, an idiom that emphasizes the study of the past to create new ideas.
Prospective Flow’s goal is to harmonize Japanese silhouettes with Western fabrics through a line that is meant for daily wear. Prospective Flow’s haori and kimono jackets are especially striking, with the sleeves draping in such a way that it adds movement to any outfit.
One of my favorite things about Prospective Flow is that their colorways heavily gravitate towards earth tones. It’s subtle and impactful. Their online shop also carries accessories such as cord belts and bags to compliment the clothing line.
Prospective Flow’s designer MUTSU also has his own separate category on the brand’s website. His 1-of-1 pieces feature sashiko (a traditional embroidery technique) combined with colorful canvas patchwork. Since sashiko is usually done on indigo fabric, it’s refreshing to see a playful take on this.
MUTSU documents each project on his Youtube channel, MUTSU BY PROSPECTIVE FLOW. He films both the design and sewing process behind these limited edition items; one of my favorite videos is of him making a star-shaped toy from scrap fabric. (The toy’s name is Greedy Friend and I would very much like to own one).
Prospective Flow lives up to their philosophy. Through their everyday staples, they continue to keep Japanese heritage alive and flowing. They can be found at their showroom in San Pedro.
Maaari
Maaari is a storefront founded in 2016 by two Filipina-American women, Ivy Ocampo and Jeanette Sawyer. In Tagalog, Maaari translates to “what can be achieved”. Based in Los Angeles, Maaari offers homegoods and accessories made by Filipino artisans.
This brand emphasizes three core values: community, consciousness and culture. I appreciate the way they leverage social media to highlight and celebrate native ways of life through telling the stories of the designers and focusing on the history of their crafts.
Maaari places a huge emphasis on transparency, which they address in an additional blog. It’s refreshing to see the makers front and center. With certain American-made clothing brands, I feel as though they only highlight their makers in email newsletters, which feels duplicitous.
My favorite brand from Maaari is Sesotunawa. Sesotunawa is an indigenous-owned business run by the T’boli tribe. The brass metal in Sesotunawa’s jewelry line comes from old Catholic church bells and isa beautiful way of reclaiming a painful reminder of colonization.
As of now, Maaari has no physical storefront. However, they occasionally hold pop-up events in Echo Park and Orange County.
Tigra Tigra
Tigra Tigra honors one philosophy above all else: showcase the history and heritage behind each garment. Bailey Hunter, founder and head designer, launched Tigra Tigra in 2016 with the intention of preserving hand-loomed textiles from around the world.
Tigra Tigra’s approach to slow fashion is emphasized by their support of their artisans. Hunter works directly with 3 employee-owned businesses in India and a nonprofit organization in South Africa. Each piece in Tigra Tigra’s ready-to-wear and home collection takes months to create.
I was drawn to this label because of their mashroo silk; it is stunning to see and feel in person. Mashroo is one of India’s oldest textiles: it was developed to avoid breaking religious law (Islam forbids wearing silk on the skin), and dates all the way back to the Moghul Empire. Silk is woven as the outer warp and cotton is used as the inner weft — a clever halal solution.
Tigra Tigra’s use of both Indian and South African embroidery and appliques are gorgeous. Finding labels that with this dedication to old textiles is rare and it’seven rarer to see these fabrics integrated into streetwear-inspired collections.
Tigra Tigra currently has no physical storefront, but can be found online.
Synthesis
Textiles are an underrated medium for storytelling and preservation. In an era where the internet encourages hyper-visibility, clothing shows how we adapt and identify.
The mainstream fashion of a country is endlessly interesting to dissect. There’s a very powerful statement that lies within minority groups referencing their history as a part of moving forward. It’s touching.
I want this neo-genre of fashion to take off. I love the idea of non-Western silhouettes becoming more popular. There’s a comfort I find in knowing that these labels are doing well. I really think this is one avenue that Asian-Americans should consider as they reclaim their heritage. I’m hopeful for the future of these brands. I wish them luck and success.
East Asian aesthetics dominate Asian-American culture, which makes it harder for Desi and Southeast Asian Americans to explore their own identity; and that a lack of accessibility severely impacts someone’s ability to learn about their history. (I figured this one out when I tried to see if any of the Philippines’ national museums were digitized and found nothing.)
The barriers that have to be overcome in order to connect with South/Southeast culture is overwhelming. With little media to see ourselves reflected in, I was genuinely surprised to find heritage-based labels rising in popularity. In this article, I will define heritage-based clothing as a subgenre that emphasizes preserving traditional textiles, manufacturing techniques or indigenous goods.
It’s really cool to see the Asian diaspora return to their roots for inspiration. It’s a smart adaptation to utilize the hyper-visibility of social media in this way: not only are marginalized groups finally being empowered, but a revitalized interest in traditional clothing can offer a starting point for Asian-American culture to build on.
Here are three Asian brands that I’ve discovered and love with my entire heart. :)
Prospective Flow
Founded in 2010, Prospective Flow is a Japanese label operating out of Los Angeles. Founded by three brothers, the label’s philosophy is rooted in “onko-chishin”, an idiom that emphasizes the study of the past to create new ideas.
Prospective Flow’s goal is to harmonize Japanese silhouettes with Western fabrics through a line that is meant for daily wear. Prospective Flow’s haori and kimono jackets are especially striking, with the sleeves draping in such a way that it adds movement to any outfit.
One of my favorite things about Prospective Flow is that their colorways heavily gravitate towards earth tones. It’s subtle and impactful. Their online shop also carries accessories such as cord belts and bags to compliment the clothing line.
Prospective Flow’s designer MUTSU also has his own separate category on the brand’s website. His 1-of-1 pieces feature sashiko (a traditional embroidery technique) combined with colorful canvas patchwork. Since sashiko is usually done on indigo fabric, it’s refreshing to see a playful take on this.
MUTSU documents each project on his Youtube channel, MUTSU BY PROSPECTIVE FLOW. He films both the design and sewing process behind these limited edition items; one of my favorite videos is of him making a star-shaped toy from scrap fabric. (The toy’s name is Greedy Friend and I would very much like to own one).
Prospective Flow lives up to their philosophy. Through their everyday staples, they continue to keep Japanese heritage alive and flowing. They can be found at their showroom in San Pedro.
Maaari
Maaari is a storefront founded in 2016 by two Filipina-American women, Ivy Ocampo and Jeanette Sawyer. In Tagalog, Maaari translates to “what can be achieved”. Based in Los Angeles, Maaari offers homegoods and accessories made by Filipino artisans.
This brand emphasizes three core values: community, consciousness and culture. I appreciate the way they leverage social media to highlight and celebrate native ways of life through telling the stories of the designers and focusing on the history of their crafts.
Maaari places a huge emphasis on transparency, which they address in an additional blog. It’s refreshing to see the makers front and center. With certain American-made clothing brands, I feel as though they only highlight their makers in email newsletters, which feels duplicitous.
My favorite brand from Maaari is Sesotunawa. Sesotunawa is an indigenous-owned business run by the T’boli tribe. The brass metal in Sesotunawa’s jewelry line comes from old Catholic church bells and isa beautiful way of reclaiming a painful reminder of colonization.
As of now, Maaari has no physical storefront. However, they occasionally hold pop-up events in Echo Park and Orange County.
Tigra Tigra
Tigra Tigra honors one philosophy above all else: showcase the history and heritage behind each garment. Bailey Hunter, founder and head designer, launched Tigra Tigra in 2016 with the intention of preserving hand-loomed textiles from around the world.
Tigra Tigra’s approach to slow fashion is emphasized by their support of their artisans. Hunter works directly with 3 employee-owned businesses in India and a nonprofit organization in South Africa. Each piece in Tigra Tigra’s ready-to-wear and home collection takes months to create.
I was drawn to this label because of their mashroo silk; it is stunning to see and feel in person. Mashroo is one of India’s oldest textiles: it was developed to avoid breaking religious law (Islam forbids wearing silk on the skin), and dates all the way back to the Moghul Empire. Silk is woven as the outer warp and cotton is used as the inner weft — a clever halal solution.
Tigra Tigra’s use of both Indian and South African embroidery and appliques are gorgeous. Finding labels that with this dedication to old textiles is rare and it’seven rarer to see these fabrics integrated into streetwear-inspired collections.
Tigra Tigra currently has no physical storefront, but can be found online.
Synthesis
Textiles are an underrated medium for storytelling and preservation. In an era where the internet encourages hyper-visibility, clothing shows how we adapt and identify.
The mainstream fashion of a country is endlessly interesting to dissect. There’s a very powerful statement that lies within minority groups referencing their history as a part of moving forward. It’s touching.
I want this neo-genre of fashion to take off. I love the idea of non-Western silhouettes becoming more popular. There’s a comfort I find in knowing that these labels are doing well. I really think this is one avenue that Asian-Americans should consider as they reclaim their heritage. I’m hopeful for the future of these brands. I wish them luck and success.