The Longstanding Legacy of Dr. Martens
By Sarah Cortina
Fashion, in terms of its literal definition, references clothing items that come in and out of style, dictated by moguls, magazines, and more. However, one brand that has remained a marked choice through various fashion cycles, regardless of the times, is Dr. Martens. Their shoes are long-lasting, both in the contexts of their physical sense and strength, and of their popularity in fashion which has sustained for decades. The brand is instantly recognizable for members of all social groups, of all classes, and has come a far way from its humble beginnings as the workwear shoe of British blue collar workers.
In 1901, the Dr. Martens brand and its shoemaking began as a family business. However, the iconic 1460 style boot started taking form post World War II, after two friends, Dr Klaus Maertens and Dr. Herbert Funk, fashioned the boot into a more comfortable commodity with the help of disused military supplies. Through their innovations came the creation of the AirWair sole, which makes the shoe comfortable and in turn, created a more ubiquitous identity for the brand in terms of when, where, and how long it could be worn.
As a result of these aforementioned physical qualities, and its low price point of 2£ at the time, the shoe became a popular choice for those belonging to Britain’s blue-collar workforce in the 1960s. During this decade, the shoe began to gain traction with the early generation of skinheads and within rock and punk culture.
The shoe’s rise in popularity within rock music culture is often first attributed to Pete Townshend, one of the major figures in the 60s rock band The Who. As Townshend had grown up within a working-class family, wearing the shoe represented a conscious choice to communicate group belonging and sympathy for that life to the masses. Simultaneously, by wearing the boot on stage, Townshend propelled the shoe’s iconography as a garment of the counterculture. Other musicians such as Sid Vicious of the Sex Pistols and Joe Strummer of The Clash also began to commonly don the shoe. Altogether, this omnipresent representation helped cement the image of the shoe as not just one of the working class but as one that was an intentional choice in fashion of the subculture.
From there on out, the shoe became associated with the punk scene, which is a profile that has been kept up until today. In particular, the label drew inspiration from its previous design collaborations with the Sex Pistols and featured its imagery in a collection a few years back. This shoe collection acts as a tribute to one of the musicians who popularized the shoe in its rising years. Despite the decades that have passed since the age of British punk, the legacy of the shoe belonging to those who aren’t quite straightarrow is one that has remained. When thinking of Dr. Martens nowadays, associations with those considered on the outer fringes of society–whether they be part of the punk, goth, or festival scene–often come to mind.
Thus, it only makes sense that Dr. Martens has slightly deviated from their past and does not rely solely on maintaining an edgy brand persona anymore. Creating a sustainable business model and sustaining legacy as a brand requires diversifying the clientele base, which Dr. Martens does in multiple ways. One of these ways is through its various collaborations. Aside from the Sex Pistols, the label has released collections with a multitude of brands over the past few years. The collaborations have ranged from Marc Jacobs to Hello Kitty to Jean Basquiat to Supreme and more.
In addition to the variety of products available, the current price point is far cry from its original 2£. Nowadays, the shoes run each consumer about $150 to $200, depending on the style, the materials on the shoe, and what type of shoe it is (i.e., boot, loafer, or sandal). This shift in price point has also propelled the shoe into having a different audience, as it is not quite as accessible of a product as it was at its inception.
Yet, regardless of the range of collaborations, pastel colors, and varying designs consumers can now purchase of the iconic shoe, the image of the Dr. Martens brand and its trademark style still remains a callback to its past. The brand lovingly heralds the heritage of the iconic boot in its marketing and imagery. Although Dr. Martens may not hold a punk image in its entirety anymore, its initial reputation as an edgier choice of dress is a perception that continues to live on through its legacy today.
In 1901, the Dr. Martens brand and its shoemaking began as a family business. However, the iconic 1460 style boot started taking form post World War II, after two friends, Dr Klaus Maertens and Dr. Herbert Funk, fashioned the boot into a more comfortable commodity with the help of disused military supplies. Through their innovations came the creation of the AirWair sole, which makes the shoe comfortable and in turn, created a more ubiquitous identity for the brand in terms of when, where, and how long it could be worn.
As a result of these aforementioned physical qualities, and its low price point of 2£ at the time, the shoe became a popular choice for those belonging to Britain’s blue-collar workforce in the 1960s. During this decade, the shoe began to gain traction with the early generation of skinheads and within rock and punk culture.
The shoe’s rise in popularity within rock music culture is often first attributed to Pete Townshend, one of the major figures in the 60s rock band The Who. As Townshend had grown up within a working-class family, wearing the shoe represented a conscious choice to communicate group belonging and sympathy for that life to the masses. Simultaneously, by wearing the boot on stage, Townshend propelled the shoe’s iconography as a garment of the counterculture. Other musicians such as Sid Vicious of the Sex Pistols and Joe Strummer of The Clash also began to commonly don the shoe. Altogether, this omnipresent representation helped cement the image of the shoe as not just one of the working class but as one that was an intentional choice in fashion of the subculture.
From there on out, the shoe became associated with the punk scene, which is a profile that has been kept up until today. In particular, the label drew inspiration from its previous design collaborations with the Sex Pistols and featured its imagery in a collection a few years back. This shoe collection acts as a tribute to one of the musicians who popularized the shoe in its rising years. Despite the decades that have passed since the age of British punk, the legacy of the shoe belonging to those who aren’t quite straightarrow is one that has remained. When thinking of Dr. Martens nowadays, associations with those considered on the outer fringes of society–whether they be part of the punk, goth, or festival scene–often come to mind.
Thus, it only makes sense that Dr. Martens has slightly deviated from their past and does not rely solely on maintaining an edgy brand persona anymore. Creating a sustainable business model and sustaining legacy as a brand requires diversifying the clientele base, which Dr. Martens does in multiple ways. One of these ways is through its various collaborations. Aside from the Sex Pistols, the label has released collections with a multitude of brands over the past few years. The collaborations have ranged from Marc Jacobs to Hello Kitty to Jean Basquiat to Supreme and more.
In addition to the variety of products available, the current price point is far cry from its original 2£. Nowadays, the shoes run each consumer about $150 to $200, depending on the style, the materials on the shoe, and what type of shoe it is (i.e., boot, loafer, or sandal). This shift in price point has also propelled the shoe into having a different audience, as it is not quite as accessible of a product as it was at its inception.
Yet, regardless of the range of collaborations, pastel colors, and varying designs consumers can now purchase of the iconic shoe, the image of the Dr. Martens brand and its trademark style still remains a callback to its past. The brand lovingly heralds the heritage of the iconic boot in its marketing and imagery. Although Dr. Martens may not hold a punk image in its entirety anymore, its initial reputation as an edgier choice of dress is a perception that continues to live on through its legacy today.