The Reinvention of Abercrombie and Fitch
By Colette Kanbarian
Popular in the late 2000s for their chiseled models, low-rise jeans, and sultry cologne, Abercrombie & Fitch has achieved a recent revival after several years of suffering. Based on a survey by the American Customer Satisfaction Index, Abercrombie & Fitch earned the status of America’s most hated retailer in 2016. The question arises as to the ways in which an outdated, failing company completely shifts their legacy and public perception in just five years.
Previously playing into preppy culture and sex appeal, Abercrombie’s emphasis on exclusivity fell out of touch with their teenage consumer base as body positivity and personal expression became prioritized. Former CEO Mike Jeffries expressed that the brand was designed for high school's "cool kids" who weren't "overweight or unattractive." Restrictive, small size ranges and airbrushed models created both unrealistic and overly sexualized beauty standards for Abercrombie’s young audience. What made Abercrombie racy, exciting, and desired was also what ultimately led to its downfall. As their brand power suffered, their logo-heavy designs lost value to consumers who began to favor the easy, trendy option of fast fashion companies.
Behind Abercrombie’s increasingly unpopular practices were the directional choices of Jeffries, who retired in the early 2010s. The brand’s main photographer Bruce Weber, who allegedly sexually abused models, was notorious for the risqué, shirtless portraits of sculpted men outfitting everything from the stores’ displays to their shopping bags. A necessary change in leadership came with the appointment of chief executive Fran Horowitz in 2017. Horowitz has driven the company out of controversy and criticism and into the limelight once again.
Under Horowitz, the company’s identity has shifted immensely, with their finger on the pulse of Gen-Z and Millennial fashion. Their clothing is now versatile and adaptable to various young lifestyles, with a range from loungewear, professional pieces, evening wear, and staple basics. Their website and advertisement features models of diverse sizes, heights, and ethnicities; the brand has also engaged in influencer partnerships through Instagram and Tik Tok. Abercrombie is placing the consumer at the center of their clothes rather than asking the customer to fit their expressed interpretation of attractiveness.
And Horowitz’s reinvention is working. The brand’s stock climbed 271% from April 2020 to 2021 alone. Her strides in making Abercrombie & Fitch cool again set an example for other companies on pivoting to survive through an evolving customer climate, grasping what society has redefined as cool.
https://www.businessoffashion.com/case-studies/retail/abercrombie-fitchs-brand-reinvention-download-the-case-study/
https://www.businessinsider.com/abercrombie-and-fitch-is-back-how-af-became-cool-again-2021-4
Previously playing into preppy culture and sex appeal, Abercrombie’s emphasis on exclusivity fell out of touch with their teenage consumer base as body positivity and personal expression became prioritized. Former CEO Mike Jeffries expressed that the brand was designed for high school's "cool kids" who weren't "overweight or unattractive." Restrictive, small size ranges and airbrushed models created both unrealistic and overly sexualized beauty standards for Abercrombie’s young audience. What made Abercrombie racy, exciting, and desired was also what ultimately led to its downfall. As their brand power suffered, their logo-heavy designs lost value to consumers who began to favor the easy, trendy option of fast fashion companies.
Behind Abercrombie’s increasingly unpopular practices were the directional choices of Jeffries, who retired in the early 2010s. The brand’s main photographer Bruce Weber, who allegedly sexually abused models, was notorious for the risqué, shirtless portraits of sculpted men outfitting everything from the stores’ displays to their shopping bags. A necessary change in leadership came with the appointment of chief executive Fran Horowitz in 2017. Horowitz has driven the company out of controversy and criticism and into the limelight once again.
Under Horowitz, the company’s identity has shifted immensely, with their finger on the pulse of Gen-Z and Millennial fashion. Their clothing is now versatile and adaptable to various young lifestyles, with a range from loungewear, professional pieces, evening wear, and staple basics. Their website and advertisement features models of diverse sizes, heights, and ethnicities; the brand has also engaged in influencer partnerships through Instagram and Tik Tok. Abercrombie is placing the consumer at the center of their clothes rather than asking the customer to fit their expressed interpretation of attractiveness.
And Horowitz’s reinvention is working. The brand’s stock climbed 271% from April 2020 to 2021 alone. Her strides in making Abercrombie & Fitch cool again set an example for other companies on pivoting to survive through an evolving customer climate, grasping what society has redefined as cool.
https://www.businessoffashion.com/case-studies/retail/abercrombie-fitchs-brand-reinvention-download-the-case-study/
https://www.businessinsider.com/abercrombie-and-fitch-is-back-how-af-became-cool-again-2021-4